Numerical analyses of wave propagation over the inner shelf and shoreface of the southern Brazilian coast: from Torres to Mostardas

Resumen

The shoreface and the inner shelf along the northern and the central coast of Rio Grande do Sul (RS) state, Brazil, between Torres and Mostardas, although displaying a homogeneous bottom relief show variations in slope and width. In the northern sector, between Torres and Pinhal, the inner shelf is wide, while the shoreface is narrow. Towards the south, these patterns are just the opposite. In this study, a model based on the parabolic approximation of the mild slope equation, REF/DIF.1, is used to simulate the wave propagation in this region. Wave refraction diagrams based on the predominant wave climate show a dominant and invariable divergent pattern for wave incidence from 90° to 135°. Numerical analyses of changes in wave energy, regarding differences in width and slope using a bottom friction coefficient fw = 0.01 in the different coastal sectors, show little influence of the bottom friction over the wave transformation processes. In general, a friction coefficient fw = 0.2 shows that wave energy reduction due to bottom friction over the wider shoreface south of Pinhal by comparison with the sector to the north is compensated by its shorter inner shelf width. The analyses show that lateral gradients of wave energy along the 10 m isobaths regarding the morphological differences between the two sectors are negligible.