A Method to Quantify Degree of Exposure Using Wave Energy and Beach Profile Responses Applied to South Coast of Espírito Santo
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.22456/1807-9806.115485Keywords:
SMC Brasil, Wave dissipation, Shoreface morphology, Inner Shelf, Coastline orientation, Shallow water wavesAbstract
Wave energy that reaches the coast is determined by characteristics of deep-sea waves. However, as the waves propagate toward the coast, their energy change given the interactions with the seabed at the inner shelf and shoreface and due to orientation of the coastline. The present study proposes a methodology to assess the degree of exposure to wave energy, considering the interaction of waves with the seabed and beach profiles stability under different wave conditions. Thus, wave data from the ERA5 model and the numerical model OLUCA-MC were used to simulate the pattern of wave energy at shallow waters for the following scenarios: North (337.5° -22.5°), Northeast (22.5° -67.5°), East (67.5° -112.5°), Southeast (112.5° -157.5°), South (157.5° -202.5°) and Southwest (202.5° -247.5°). The evaluation of the profiles response was made based on the variability of height of the barrier and the emerged beach volume. The results indicate that the direction associated with the most energetic waves suffer intense dissipation as they propagate towards the coast. While waves related to the most recurrent directions increase their energy while propagating towards the coast. The profiles associated with a wide range of wave energy present greater variability and tendency to reduce barrier height and sedimentary volume. In conclusion, wave energy dissipation at inner shelf and shoreface occurs differently for each wave direction, corroborated by the beach profiles variation.
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